Local Flavor vs. Starbucks: Why Choose Ecuadorian Coffee?

The powerful Starbucks coffeehouse empire arrived in Ecuador on August 15, 2024, opening its first two locations. The first one launched in Scala Shopping, followed by the second one a week later, on August 22, at Condado Shopping. Many people expected to see top American executives from Starbucks at the event, but the ones cutting the iconic green ribbon were Peruvian businesspeople from Delosi, a company that has been operating franchises for over four decades in Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia.

Despite delays in the grand opening, the renowned American brand had planned to inaugurate its first store in Ecuador in June 2024, which generated great anticipation among local consumers. The news was shared on the brand’s official social media accounts, and large billboards promoted Starbucks' arrival in the two major shopping centres. However, the opening was postponed for two months, and as of now, no official reasons have been made public, according to the journal Primicias.

What is known is that in addition to the significant presence of high-ranking Peruvian representatives eager to expand Starbucks throughout Ecuador, "many upper- and middle-class youth from Quito were seen at the event. They wore green jackets and carried thermos mugs decorated with Starbucks’ iconic mermaid logo, obviously bought during trips to the United States. This phenomenon reflects the youth’s desire to adopt a new identity different from their roots," noted sociologist Gustavo Estrada.

According to Estrada, Starbucks' arrival has been an immediate success. "People have had to wait over two hours just to enter the coffee shop. Numerous upper-middle-class individuals, especially young TikTokers from Ecuador's main cities such as Ibarra, Ambato, Guayaquil, and Santo Domingo, travelled just to purchase the famous American coffee, take pictures, post them on social media, record TikTok videos, and share their experience with the world," he said.

Most young people from Ecuador's upper- and middle classes, upon visiting Starbucks, sought to emulate the lifestyle of residents in cities like New York, Madrid, Paris, or Berlin. However, even before Starbucks opened its doors, thousands of Ecuadorians who had tried the brand in other countries were already questioning the taste of the coffee and criticizing its high prices.

Adapting Ecuadorian Coffee to Starbucks

The excitement didn’t last long. Soon, imported coffee began to be looked down upon by Ecuadorian palates, which prefer more authentic, local flavours. Ecuadorian coffee, with its distinctive Andean notes and a balance of light and bold flavours, offers a superior experience in local cafés compared to Starbucks' products. The watered-down and monotonous taste of Starbucks' drinks didn’t win over many, and several customers expressed frustration about the high prices, which don’t fit Ecuador’s economic reality.

For this reason, months before the grand opening, Starbucks announced on its social media that it would reduce the price of its regular Americano from $2.80 to $1.75, a promotion that has continued to this day. Similarly, the café informed various media outlets that they would be offering three types of Ecuadorian-origin coffee: Galápagos, Loja, and Costa. However, when visiting Starbucks at Scala Shopping to verify this information, an employee mentioned that these three types of coffee are still not available to the public, as they are undergoing review by the management. He also added that the coffees currently available come from Colombia, and none are of Ecuadorian origin.

Starbucks’ official website mentions that its first location in Ecuador (Scala Shopping) has a capacity for 50 people and is housed in a 140 m² store. It features a mural by artist Juan Sebastián Aguirre Ríos, which focuses on the Amazon rainforest. The mural depicts a woman drinking coffee from a clay bowl, symbolizing nature, which, according to the artist, reflects the origins of coffee in Ecuador. However, it’s important to note that the history of Ecuadorian coffee and its large industry doesn’t begin in the Amazon rainforest. It has its roots in the fertile lands of Manabí, one of the country's main coffee-producing regions, according to historian Ricardo Pérez.

This contrast between the mural’s narrative and the true history of coffee in Ecuador makes us reflect on how global marketing often resorts to standardized stereotypes instead of adapting to local roots and understanding more about Ecuador’s history. A clear example is the idea that coffee originated in the Amazon rainforest, a generalized approach for Latin America, when in Ecuador, its historical development has taken place mainly along the coast rather than in the Amazon.

Despite Starbucks' relentless efforts to adapt to the Ecuadorian market, its attempts have fallen short. For over a month, consumers have shown a clear preference for local cafés over Starbucks, appreciating the authentic Ecuadorian flavours, lower prices, and, of course, the tradition these places offer. The question remains: Will Starbucks follow the same path as it did in Australia and eventually leave the country, or will it stay in Ecuador?

Why Bet on Ecuadorian Coffee?

The history of coffee in Ecuador is somewhat unclear, but it’s known that the first crops date back to the 19th century, particularly in the mountainous regions of Manabí. Since its arrival, coffee has become a key crop, spreading throughout the country. By 1905, Ecuador was already exporting thousands of sacks of coffee to Europe from the port of Manta. Thanks to these large exports, landowners of large estates began calling it ‘the Golden Bean.’

In the 1920s, coffee exports surpassed cacao due to its great value and aroma. Exports grew significantly from 1935, rising from 220,000 sacks to 1.8 million in 1985. However, starting in 1990, the coffee sector suffered a major setback due to the global economic crisis. Despite this, by 2011, Ecuador had regained its position as one of the top coffee exporters, with over a million sacks annually.

In recent years, coffee production in Ecuador has declined. According to the National Ecuadorian Coffee Association (Ancafé), over the last three years, production has averaged 200,000 quintals annually, which is equivalent to 15,000 sacks of 60 kilograms. Ancafé also points out that this deficit is not only due to insufficient production to meet local demand but also to the lack of public policies that boost its growth.

Despite the ups and downs caused by insufficient production and a lack of public policies to promote its growth and diversify the coffee supply, one thing is undeniable: Ecuadorians are true coffee lovers. Despite the new trends that have tried to impose different ways of consumption, coffee has stayed with us since it arrived in our lands and has become a symbol of our culture.

The crops grown in our fertile lands have not only earned our coffee global recognition, but we’ve also created a ritual around it. The traditional "chuspa coffee," typically made using a cloth strainer attached to a wire for support, was passed down from our grandmothers and remains a family tradition in many Ecuadorian homes.

Another custom that can't be forgotten is the traditional foods we would prepare to accompany the coffee, such as humitas and delicious tamales with ground chili. These delicacies were handmade, usually on weekends, and shared with friends and family just before enjoying a cup of coffee. These traditions have found their place in many traditional cafés across the country.

One of the places in Quito that has preserved its tradition and loyal clientele, despite the arrival of international coffee chains, is the traditional Cafetería Modelo, located a few blocks from the Museo de la Moneda, on Sucre Street. Walking through its famous corridors feels like stepping back into the old Quito. The traditional flavours haven’t changed at all, and they come to life in this space, offering a variety of traditional dishes, from authentic humitas to "chuspa" coffee, a favourite of many of Cafetería Modelo customers.

Since its opening in 1950 in Quito’s historic center, Cafetería Modelo has been a gathering place for generations of families. Every weekend, people of all ages and social classes gather to enjoy its famous humitas and traditional "chuspa" coffee. "I always come with my boyfriend and family for the humitas, which are exquisite, and I wouldn’t trade the 'chuspa' coffee for anything," says Samantha, a loyal customer who prefers to remain anonymous. She adds: "Here, the true flavour of coffee is preserved, whereas in other places, the quality leaves much to be desired, and the coffee is overly sweet."

Despite the growing popularity of international chains like Starbucks in the country, Samantha is confident that Cafetería Modelo and other traditional establishments will remain at the heart of Quito's Historic Center. "I don’t think Cafetería Modelo will disappear anytime soon. Although the younger generations sometimes prefer what’s trendy and stray from our culture, this place preserves the flavours and essence of our traditional dishes that can’t be easily forgotten," she reflects.

Another draw of Cafetería Modelo is its live music, which accompanies diners every night. From traditional pasillos to contemporary jazz, the music is an integral part of the experience, attracting people from all over Quito. "The music here is unique, from the pasillos my grandparents listened to, to local jazz artists," mentions another regular customer.

One thing that can’t be denied is that Ecuadorians are true lovers of our music, traditions, and especially our local cafés. Although international chains like Starbucks have tried to conquer the Ecuadorian palate, they haven’t succeeded. We aren’t here to experiment with new flavours of sweet and watery coffee; we’re here to bet on our coffee, which not only has made history worldwide but also lives on in local cafés where authentic flavours persist. Choosing our coffee is more than just a matter of taste—it's a decision to return to our roots.